The Benefits of Recycling Steel in Junk Cars

Recycling junk cars has a huge impact on our environment, economy, and more; an impact that is entirely positive. There are many benefits of junk car recycling, most of which involve steel. Continue reading to learn why it is important to recycle the steel in junk cars, and how you can personally contribute to this wonderful initiative.

Most Vehicles are Mostly Steel:

Most vehicles are manufactured with steel because it is a highly durable, strong, and dependable metal. Not only can it protect drivers and passengers, it can be recycled and repurposed over and over again. In fact, most steel is made from existing steel materials, which does wonders to preserve our natural resources, conserve energy, and reduce harmful emissions produced by metal refining factories. According to the Steel Recycling Institute (SRI), "recycling a single ton conserves 2500 pounds of iron ore, 1400 pounds of coal, and 120 pounds of limestone."

Vehicles, on average, are 60% steel and iron. The shell alone is 25% of the total amount of steel in a car or truck, on average. This includes the quarter panels, trunk, hood, and doors. Additionally, internal parts and metal components are recycled for their steel, such as automotive parts, gaskets, circuit boards, and more.

Steel Recycling:

Motorized vehicles are among the most frequently recycled consumer product in the country. Regardless of who owned them or what happened to them, virtually all cars end up in the recycling process. According to the Steel Recycling Institute (SRI), more than 14 million tons of steel from cars are recycled each year. This can actually be argued as a 100% recycling rate among vehicles no longer suited for the road!

Junk Car Salvaging Process:

The junk car recycling process, although not too complicated, requires a fleet of highly-specialized equipment and technology. Most metal reprocessing centers will start by draining the vehicle of any remaining fluids to stay within environmentally responsible recycling practices. These fluids include transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, windshield wiper fluid, radiator fluid, battery fluid, and motor oil. Next, they will begin to dismantle the vehicle of all its reusable parts, like wheels, tires, headlights, doors, windows, fenders, bumpers, trunk lids, stereos, and any operational or repairable auto parts.

After a vehicle is finished with the draining and dismantling process, all that's left are scattered hulks. This is usually shredded in an industrial metal shredder, which is an enormous and innovative machine that can shred large hulks down to fist-sized pieces in less than 45 seconds. These pieces are a compilation of steel, non-steel metals, and fluff (non-reusable rubbers, plastics, glass, etc.). A large magnetic sorter is used to separate the steel and iron pieces from the rest of the shredding material, which are then shipped all across the country to various metal buyers, reprocessed, and steel mills.

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Nitrous Vs Turbo - When Turbo Should Not Be Utilized

There is a big debate over the use of turbochargers in naturally aspirate motors, especially amongst drag racers. New turbo technology makes it so that every combustion engine with enough exhaust flow can benefit from the boost generated by a turbos' compact and powerful fin turbine. This generates air pressures that boost a motor's horsepower potential.

Though every engine can be turbocharged, that doesn't mean some naturally aspirated car owners would want to add them to the power plant currently residing under the hood. A combination of power and traction is required to control an engine's potential and transfer it to the wheels.

One place where you see the turbo versus non-turbo debate is at the local drag strip or race track. Many of the racers have different experiences when it comes to boosting the parts installed.

Drivers who have small displacement motors may choose to include a turbo to get the response they need on a race track when they push their RPM to the limit. These foreign made "rice burners" could never compete against some of the big displacement muscle car motors that you'll find on the race tracks. Not without adding a powerful turbo to their engine package. This may be the perfect solution for them, but it is not something a big displacement engine owner considers when they want to increase the power and performance, as well as transfer of that power to the streets through the wheels.

The first fallacy of turbos is that you get extra power at any throttle opening. This is false. A turbo compression wheel does not create maximum boost until the throttle is in a WOT (wide open throttle) position for a number of seconds. You may never WOT a throttle around town streets as a turbo would let the daily driver down when it comes to throttle response.

Now that you know the downside of turbo power, you can see why a big muscle car motor might do better with nitrous oxide and a monitoring system for heat. Heat is the number one power robbing component in the combustion engine. Adding a turbo will only add to the build-up of heat inside the combustion chambers. This robs the motor of its power building abilities when trying to get the most horsepower to the wheels. Find out from a wheel supplier which wheels will complement the turbo you have.

Large displacement motors and pickup trucks are susceptible to these environments more than any other engine. Running hot laps back and forth can generate engine busting temperatures that can be exacerbated by a turbo's added heat induction. Often, the larger and heavier cars use turbos to increase the power for forward momentum. Diesel is also usually used in these vehicles because of the initial power and fuel needed to accelerate these vehicles.

If you have a large displacement drag car that operates on staged nitrous oxide induction, you might not want to add a turbo because it won't make much of a difference. Turbos are great if the vehicle is able to suitably control the power of the wheels, drive shaft, tyres and the engine.

Visit our website https://rbinnovations.com for details or call us at 315-451-4441 to buy nitrous oxide engines.

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Tips To Fit Nitrous Kit by RB Innovations

Nitrous oxide is also known as laughing gas and it is compressed in liquid form and injected into the intake of your car engine. Nitrous is a trouble-free and effective way of getting HUGE amounts of power and torque. In few cases you can add 100 BHP and this is 10 times cooler than air and when injected into your air intake the retort is AMAZING.

A number of people feel that a nitrous kit will injure your engine but in fact if utilized properly it cools your engine and works wonders.

Here are the some effortless instructions to an added 100 BHP and how fit a nitrous kit.

1. First of all you require buying a nitrous oxide kit and I recommend fitting it yourself as it will save you a lot of cash. You can buy it online by searching nitrous oxide kits for sale.

When you got yourself a nitrous kit you will see that you have a bottle and some jets and leads etc. 

and the nitrous bottle are usually mounted in the boot. Check the kits instructions and make certain it is mounted the proper way as it is vitally essential for it to work correctly. Once you have the brackets in position attach the bottle to them using the straps given.

2. Run the delivery pipe from your boot down the internal sill and through the bulkhead to the engine bay. This is just concealed under the carpet and slide the pipe end fitting and olive onto the ending of the pipe then push the end of the pipe into the bottle valve and squeeze the fitting.

3. Securely accumulate the solenoids using the brackets supplied to the front of the engine bay or a cool area below the bonnet near to where the injector will be installed. The solenoids are color code: Basically blue for nitrous and red for fuel.

4. By using your car instruction booklet identify the fuel supply line (usually found on the bulkhead). Fit the t piece into the fuel stroke making sure all connections are locked and leak free.

5. Connect the novel fuel line from the t piece into the input solenoid using the fittings that are provided in the nitrous kit. 

Likewise connect the nitrous delivery line to the input on the blue nitrous solenoid. 

6. Now attach the blue and red LINES to the solenoid outputs, prepared to be connected to the injector and make certain that the connections are secure.

7. The next step is fitting the injector into the air inlet duct, immediately BEFORE the throttle body.

8. Take of the bulky air inlet duct just before the throttle body, and drill a hole for every injector as close to the throttle plate as probable. Make definite the holes are good and smooth to shun any air leaks or nitrous leaks out of your nitrous kit.

9. Now add the injector after sliding over the spacer and screw on the apex hat retainer from the within of the air hose.

10. Refurbishment the air inlet hose back to the throttle body and cut the red and blue lines as short as feasible and connect them to the injector firmly using the fittings supplied.

11. So that the system is just active at occupied throttle a micro switch needs to be mounted on the throttle body and for this use the mounting plate supplied.

12. The micro switch must be placed and place so that it is activated on full throttle. 

13. The next thing to be fitted is the system arming switch and you need to find the engine live supply using your HAYNES manual and inquisitive around the fuse box: Also make sure the battery is off. 

14. Now attach your ignition live feed to one side of the switch, then connect on an additional wire to the other side and run it through the engine compartment anywhere near the solenoids. Try and employ existing holes in the bulkhead to make this thing easier. 

15. At the solenoids, rip the live feed into two wires and run one to each solenoid positive terminal and attach the earth wire to each remaining terminal and joint them together to one side of the micro switch. Connect one more wire to the other side of the switch and link it to an existing good earthing point below the bonnet so that there you have it!!! 

It may look somewhat confusing but i can assure you it is actually simple and to know more about nitrous injection systems or nitrous injection kits visit us.